FO: Take A Seat Dress

This is an epic project - I actually used one of my "love it too much to risk messing it up" fabrics from my stash! And I LOVE IT!

I purchased this fabric last 4th of July from Fabric.com in the sale they had that weekend. The fabric is called Perfectly Perched Chairs in Steel designed by Laurie Wisbrun for Robert Kaufman. This line had several designs featuring chairs, but I liked this one best due to the colors - steel gray, white, and bright turquoise. I bought 3 yards with no specific pattern in mind, just knowing I wanted a simple dress. Then it sat... and waited... I didn't want to just chop into this awesomeness without knowing I would like the results, you know? I mean, those chairs needed their day to shine! I started off thinking Simplicity 2444 would work, but I didn't want to break up the lines of chairs with the angled bust darts on that pattern. So, I raided the pattern stash for a bodice with more simple, straight darts that could be used for all my lined novelty prints (seriously, I seem to be unknowingly drawn to lines and geometric patterns that need pattern matching - it's a dilemma). Simplicity 1419 seemed to be just the ticket, plus it had the fun option of the keyhole neckline and peter pan collar. So I muslined the daylights out of that pattern, and made my Skewed Flowers Dress first. Once I worked out my little kinks, I decided to take the plunge!

Now, I did make a few changes from my Skewed Flowers dress - most obviously the neckline. I love the keyhole and collar the pattern includes, but I think a cutesy collar on a dress covered in bright colored chairs would be a bit much. Just a personal judgement there. I actually just traced the Simplicity 2444 neckline onto my traced 1419 pattern piece - quick and easy change. I also really didn't want to have to figure out drafting a facing, plus I've had a problem with my dresses standing away from my back more than I like and I'm pretty sure it's due to the stiffness of the interfaced facing back there. This time, I decided to try bias tape on the neckline. I will admit it was a bit fiddly since I only had double fold bias tape on hand (and I was in to much a "quick satisfaction" mood to make any), but I made it there in the end. It's actually much easier than following all the directions for a traditional facing, plus I hate that facings always want to pop out, so I will certainly be employing the bias tape method on future makes :)

As you can see form the side view, I still have a bit too much fabric at the upper back. It drives me nuts. I hate that can't reach back there to pin everything in place just right, you know? My hunchback needs some assistance. Oh well - I'm going to look up how to address this before my next make. The back view ... I'm almost ashamed to show you because it shows the problem with the other change I made to the pattern. Honestly, the dress it too tight. I've worn it out now, and it did stretch out a bit so that it was more comfortable, but it tends to look a bit sausage-like in the back unless I'm standing just right (clearly I'm not standing just right in this photo). I also had just washed the dress and ironed it before taking these photos, so trust me it isn't always this tight. But good grief the zipper is actually stuck in a wonky position halfway down my back... and you can see the white line of the "invisible" zipper. Ugh. Maybe I'll lose weight someday, lol, just for this dress. My invisible zipper does look very good other than the tightness issue. The thing I changed was that last time around I had to add a tiny extra pleat to the front skirt to make my pieces match the bodice after all the alterations I had made, so this time I just figured I could cut the next size down in the skirt - apparently this was not a wise decision.

Not a lot of hanger-appeal to my dresses, lol.I think you can see the effort I made with pattern matching though. I knew I didn't have enough fabric to even try a seamless match up of the pattern, but I wanted to make sure the lines of chairs were consistent, and I paid particular attention to make the center front waist seam on the gray areas between the chairs. I think it came out really well :) This is my first official time pattern matching, so I'm pleased.

Close ups: I decided to use some chartreuse colored bias tape from my stash (left over from this Sorbetto) at the neckline just for fun. I love a little hidden pop of color and you don't see it from the outside at all. I followed the suggestion of a reader on my zipper and placed the top of the zipper tape just down from the seam edge - this caused a definite need for a hook and eye, but the zipper doesn't seem to make the dress want to pull away more, so that's a win :) My waistline seam is just ever so slightly off at the zipper, but it was so close that I couldn't be bothered to rip it out and try again. Also, my darts still don't line up from the bodice to skirt on the front due to all the changes I had to make to the pattern. One of these days I'll figure that one out.

Now for the other icky mistake - that picture above shows my side seam. Yeah, it totally doesn't line up from the bodice to the skirt. More than that, it's almost a full inch off! This is another issue I had from cutting the smaller skirt, so I will certainly not do that next time. When I ear the dress though, the print is so busy that no one has noticed this little flaw, plus let's be real I don't usually walk around waving my arms in the air, so I'm not that worried about it. It's just being documented for internet shaming purposes *sigh*.

So there you have it :) A new dress that I absolutely adore in spite of its issues. Seriously, how awesome is this fabric?! I just love it, and I know it will get lots of wear. Even The Gordo had to photobomb me so he could be seen near this dress, lol. Don't let that corgi smirk fool you. He loves the dress too.

Summary:
Fabric: 3 yards of Perfectly Perched Chairs fabric in Steel colorway by Laurie Wisbrun for Robert Kaufman - $13.32 from Fabric.com (no longer available)
Pattern: Simplicity 1419 with Simplicity 2444 neckline
Notions: 22" invisible zipper - $1.50, thread - stash, chartreuse bias tape - stash
Hours: Approx. 5

"Hot Child In The City" Dress - Simplicity 2444

 You Guys! You Guys! I made a dress! And it fits!

This is my very first iteration of Simplicity 2444, that much beloved pattern the entire blogosphere over. Sewing bloggers have sung this patterns praises for the past 2 years - I've had it in my stash all that time, but only recently decided to officially make it up. I made 2 full muslins of the bodice (including the sleeves), and it took quite a few alterations to make it fit me.

Since this was my first full make up of the pattern, I decided to use a fabric that I liked, but wouldn't be completely heartbroken over if it didn't work out. This is the City Scenes Aerial View Quilting Cotton by Jane Dixon for Andover Fabrics in the pink/black/white colorway. I was feeling very brave when I bought it from Fabric.com, lol, and when it arrived I still liked it but was a bit worried it could end up being a bit over the top.

I totally love that this has pockets!

This dress pattern is well regarded for good reason - it's a very simple bodice with some cool diagonal waist darts, it has pockets (!), it has a full skirt that would look good with a petticoat or without, and the pattern includes lots of simple variations for fancy collars and a waist tie. I went with the simplest possible version - the fitted plain bodice with sleeves and a full skirt. Like I said, it took quite a few alterations to the pattern to get it fitting me, but I am glad I put in the time because it really does fit well now :) My alterations included: 2" hollow chest adjustment, lengthening the bodice by 2.5", lengthening the darts accordingly, adding 1/2" to the waist at each side, adding darts to the upper back. I think I changed more than that, but I can't remember. That's a lot of changes, ya'll! I also had to fudge the outermost pleat on the skirt to account for that extra width at the waist - no biggie.

Even with all my adjustments, it's not perfect. The bodice was great until I put the interfaced facing on and now the back stands away from my neck - it's not crazy noticeable, but it's enough for my hair to sink down into it and tickle my back all day, lol. I'll be sure to make that back dart a smidge bigger next time. Darn that dowager's hump! In all honesty, I don't know that the skirt is the most flattering on me. Pleats right where my gut starts poking out means the skirt sticks out more at the waist. Next time around, I will either move the darts toward the sides or try out a different skirt with the bodice. I think this decision will be made by how much fabric I have on hand.

I used a 22" black zipper I had in my stash - I lucked out really, since I just assumed I would have a zipper on hand and never officially checked until I needed to insert it - this was the only possible candidate that matched. Hooray for thrift store zippers! This zip cost me 10¢, and is most definitely older than I am - but wouldn't you know it went in great and works like a champ! They just don't make things the way they used to :)

Speaking of zippers, can I get an Amen for this zipper insertion?! This is by far the best looking zipper I have ever inserted IN my entire life. I didn't pattern match since the pattern is so crazy and I was so limited on fabric - I bought 3 yards with no specific project in mind and it ended up being just enough if I got incredibly creative with my cutting layout - thank heavens this pattern isn't directional! Anyway, I inserted the zipper exactly as described by Sunni in her free Craftsy class and man did it deliver. I stabilized the opening with knit stay tape, ironed the seam allowance over, applied Wonder Tape, stuck the zipper on, and stitched it in place - not a single problem! What a joy :) This baby looks so good it makes me want to walk around backwards so others can fully appreciate it.

Here's a closeup of the front and the back. I know it's hard to see them in the crazy print, but the waist darts are really cool. And there's the zipper again - ah, perfection :) I know the picture shows some gaping at waist/bodice junction in the zipper - but I had worn this dress 3 separate days already without ironing before these photos (oops), and I know it was perfect when I first made it so I think it just needs ironing.

Here's a view of the insides for you. All of the seams were finished with pinking shears, because they are quick and easy. If you look close you can see selvage in my seams - man, did I use lots of selvage! I'm telling you, it was a small miracle that I could get all these pieces cut out of this fabric. I was only able to fit all the pieces as drafter by cutting the front pieces one direction and the back pieces "upside down". You can only tell by certain buildings which way the pattern goes, but no matter which way you look there are always some buildings upside down so I'm not worried about it. In the end I had nothing but small scraps left, though I did have enough to cut an extra sleeve - I forgot to flip the pattern to cut the second one (oops). Every skirt piece has selvage on one side of it, plus I had to be creative with the pockets and facings - they ended up with a few "cut in" spots.

The only place this actually showed through in more than the seam allowances was on one side of one of the pockets - there was a teeny little hole. So, I used the same trick I did for mending my sheets - I ironed a tiny piece of fusible interfacing to the back, then stitched just over the hole back and forth and put a little fray check on it. From the front all you can see is a tiny spot of white stitches, but in the print you have to really search for it. It just looks like part of one of the buildings :)

I did a small bit of hand sewing on this dress too - somehow the mark that the pattern tells you to sew the skirt up to before you insert the zipper was too short - like 2 full inches too short (which makes no sense since I used the recommended zipper length and marked the fabric correctly, but whatev). I was able to use my zipper foot and sew it closed about another inch, but I had to hand sew the rest up to the base of the zip. Also, I hand stitched the facing at the shoulder seams to keep it from flipping outside the dress as well as around the zipper opening just to keep things neat and tidy. I could have been neater about my stitches at that back facing, but hey - it's inside the dress and it does the job - case closed. I was so excited to be done at that point that I totally didn't care. There is also a hook and eye at the top.

So there you have it :) I successfully made a dress! Oh, and all in all I'm estimating this cost me a whopping $14.00 - the fabric cost $13.32 in the 4th of July Sale, the zip was 10¢, and I'm rounding up to account for the hook and eye, wonder tape, and stay tape. Not bad in my book! I have already worn the dress several times and it hasn't fallen apart - always a good sign. Also, I don't feel like it's too crazy of a print. The dress feels very ModCloth to me, so I think I hit the right balance of quirky and cute. I wore it the first time plain, then I came across this wide elastic belt in my closet and wore it with that the next few times - I think the belt makes it look more "ready-to-wear" and helps break up the crazy print a bit. I still like it both ways though. I was complimented on the dress several times, but not once was I asked if I made it :) I call that a success!

I can guarantee that there will be many more of this dress in my future - hello, cute quilting cottons! This project being a success did so much for my sewing mojo. After the past few projects that ran into serious road blocks that I had no idea how to fix, actually having a wearable finished item that fits and I like is kind of a personal miracle. Now I'm all jazzed to Make All The Things! So stick around and see where this leads me :)

P.S. I hope the name of the dress is self explanatory, but I named it 'Hot Child In The City' after the song lyric due to a) the hot pink color b) the city scene print and c) it's freakin' hot outside right now!

WIP Wednesday: The Week of Sweaters

I have dubbed this past week as The Week of Sweaters. I managed to finish 2 (!) that I have had in the works for a long time - check back on Friday for at least one of them. I also had several doctor's appointments and other things that involved sitting in a waiting room for extended periods of time, which means I was able to make a surprising amount of progress on my newest sweater project, Emelie.

In any other sweater, I would think this wasn't very much progress, but considering this is fingering weight yarn and I started it 10 days ago, this is pretty remarkable in my book :) This cardigan is knitted from the bottom up, so I have finished the ribbing and I'm into the 3rd repeat of the lace pattern on the front:

I know the pic is crappy, but it is incredibly difficult to photograph black yarn, especially when you're trying to spread out the stitches at the same time, lol. I am really loving this project so far.It's just enough of a pattern to keep it from being boring, and it's just straight knitting or purling in between. I've also decided to eliminate the decreases at the side, so it's made it even easier as there are less instructions to keep track of. Plus, this yarn is straight up heavenly. It is so soft and light weight, I just know I'm going to wear the daylights out of this when its finished. I can't wait! 

I'm also plugging away at a custom order - a friend of mine wanted The Hulk for her son's birthday :) I couldn't find a pattern that I really loved, so I'm making my own. This has proved to be a little frustrating at times, but I like the pieces that I have finished already. I had hoped to make bobble stitch muscles on his chest, but they just looked like he had a cluster of boobs, lol, so I will be making his arms muscly instead. 

Reorganizing and rearranging my sewing room really restored my desire to sew, so I pulled out my crazy print Simplicity 2444 that I cut out weeks ago and got to work. I haven't rushed putting it together in hopes that it will help with my precision - my mantra has been, "Slow and steady wins the race," lol. It must be working because this has been a pain-free project! I marked the pieces and sewed up what you see on Monday night - I think I spent 3 hours on it then - and last night I put in the zipper.

Look at that sexy zipper! This is by far the best zipper I have ever done - it came out perfect! I followed Sunni's Mastering Zipper Techniques free Craftsy class to the letter, and what do you know, it worked! I used knit stay tape at the opening, pressed the seam allowance under, stuck the zipper down with Wonder Tape, and stitched nice and slow. I was so proud, I could've cried, lol. Also, with the zipper in, I tried the dress on ... and it fit! It's a miracle! I've had so many problems with fitting that to see it fit like it should was an amazing boost. I can't wait to finish it up now :)

That's all for me this week :) Check back on Friday for a pretty epic finished object! And head over to Tami's Amis' Blog to see what others are up to.

WIP Wednesday

Well, this week has been yet another jumble of craziness. I worked on my next princess commission over the weekend, but I got so frustrated with the pattern that I angrily tossed it aside, lol. Here is how it looks thus far:

Hopefully you can tell it's going to be Cinderella. I'm using this pattern by Sahrit Freud-Weinstein. To say I'm having issues with the pattern is a gross understatement. The biggest problem I have is that the author uses steel crochet hooks. Regular hooks are very different in size, so I'm pretty much just guessing on what hook to use - this means that I've had to make each piece at least twice. I made the entire body/skirt only to realize how short it is - then I read where the pattern says it's designed to be only 5.5 inches tall. My problem is that this is going to be a set of dolls ... and Princess Jasmine is almost 8 inches tall! Cinderella would have looked pint sized in comparison, so I had to bump up my hook size in hopes of it coming out bigger. The skirt itself is still kind of short, so I've left it unfinished and I will go back to it and possibly add more rows to make it taller later on. I also have no idea how the author used the size yarn she used and got the results she did - I've used all worsted and sport weight yarns (size 3 and 4) like the pattern calls for, but the size 3 yarn was WAY too small - like it was riddled with holes. Totally not good for a doll stuffed with poly-fill. So, I've had to hole the light blue yarn in double just to get it to look right. Add to all these issues that I was watching a show so bad it was offensive, and you end up wanting to ditch the whole thing, lol. Anyway, I'll pick this up again soon once I've cooled down. Plus I have other projects that need to be finished first (*cough* zombie *cough*).

And what do you do when you have lots of other pressing projects to finish? Why, you start making a new dress, lol. I told myself I would be responsible and not start this until I finished my other obligations, but of course I was so excited about my muslin making success this weekend that all I want to do it sew it up. So Monday night I finalized my pattern tweaks and cut out the real fabric. Holy cow, what a job that was. I bought 3 yards of this fabric thinking that was plenty, but I'd never laid out the skirt pieces before - they are so wide that I would literally have needed 4 yards to fit it correctly - crazy. The Project Runway pattern (by Simplicity) itself is well drafted, but it's kind of annoying how the envelope just tells you how much fabric you need for each piece you add (i.e. short sleeves 3/8, dress bodice 1 1/4, etc). That's all fine if I'm only cutting one piece, but you can always lay the smaller pieces in the unused space next to bigger pieces (like the skirt). I spent over 2 hours figuring out a cutting layout and then cutting the pieces. I had to lay the fabric across my bed, lay out a piece, mark where it sat, then pick the piece up and repeat until I had all the pieces accounted for. In the end I made it work - only by cutting the back skirt and bodice pieces upside down. This fabric is so crazy that it's not immediately obvious the print is directional, so I'm not too worried about it. When I was done cutting, these were the only pieces left that were larger than 1":

One of these pieces is a sleeve I accidentally cut backwards - I almost cried, lol. Luckily there was enough to cut it again. I even managed to fit all the pocket and facing pieces out of the fabric. Granted the selvages are in my seam allowances, but at least it fit. Now I just have to get more time to work on this. Not only do I
Not only to I have my zombie and princesses to finish - I also have people coming over to dinner on Friday so I have been busting my but cleaning up my mess from trying to organize things. Last night I cleaned the kitchen to the cleanest it's been in months - tonight I tackle the dining room which is covered in mail.

Sorry if my tone sounds super complainy, lol, I'm actually pretty upbeat about everything in real life. I just wanted to give a proper representation of the process. It seems to be all or nothing - isn't that always the way it goes? Hopefully things level out soon :) That's all for me this week - head over to Tami's Amis' Blog to check out what others are making!

Muslin Monday - Simplicity 2444

No, this will not be a regular Monday post, lol. I just love alliteration :)

Well it seems I really have the sewing bug again. With all the cute printed cottons I've splurged on lately, I knew I needed a simple pattern that wouldn't break up the patterns to much (so I wouldn't have to match the print so much - I'm lazy, lol). Enter Simplicity 2444, the work horse of the sewing blog world. I've had this pattern for literally years and I never have put it together. I pulled it out of the stash and finally got my rear in gear. I would "allow" myself a tid bit of time each night last week to work on sewing in between other things I needed to do (like clean). I ended up prepping/tracing my pattern pieces one night, cutting out the muslin a night or two later, and finally sewing it up on Sunday before church.

Once it was put together, I was able to diagnose my issues. I'm beginning to notice I have some "usual" adjustments that I will probably have to make to every pattern forever. I had some gaping at the neck, so I did a 1.5" hollow chest adjustment - I just pinched out the excess and pinned it down, then made that my new center fold line of my pattern. I also had to go up to the next size - I was trying to compensate for the extra 4 inches of ease the big 4 pattern companies add and apparently I went down too much. I also had to lengthen the bodice by 2.25 inches - no seriously! I've never really thought of myself as long in the torso, but that was just to get it to hit my actual waist. Because I changed the angle of the center line, I wanted to adjust the darts back to where they were since they really did hit me perfectly right off the bat. Also, I had to extend the darts down to the new waistline. So, I measured the original distance of the darts from the center and shifted them accordingly. Then I lined up the original dart points with the new shifted spots on the waistline and drew a new dart. They seem pretty crazy long, but it did the job. I redrew the pattern with the new adjustments, and ended up with this:

Kind of a creepy smile, but I think it's obvious that I'm pleased, lol. This new muslin is almost perfect. I never tried to sit down with my first muslin on, and I realized that I need a tad more ease in the waist. I also had drawn the sleeves in the smaller size and I think I'll just go up to the next larger for ease of movement. I don't want to have to readjust the whole dress all the time when I raise my hands above my bust. It may look a little more wrinkly under the bust while I'm standing, but at least I know I will be able to move without worrying about it.

After all the problems I had on Butterick 5982, I am really excited to have a pattern I feel I know how to diagnose and fit correctly. Now I'm torn as to which fabric I'll use as the first full test! I am actually so excited that I may end up with 15 dresses from this pattern, lol, we shall see.